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Care Package

Proper care for your cue affects performance, as well as aesthetics.

By Nick Leider

Every player knows the feeling: You’ve got a brand new cue — one that might’ve been on your radar for months or years. It’s only a matter of time before you screw it together and unleash hell on your opponents.
But when it comes to keeping that prized possession in fighting shape, you could be unleashing hell on it with your maintenance and cleaning methods. We’ve talked to some of the biggest names in production cues to get a list of dos and don’ts, so you’ll be able to turn that new cue into an old favorite.

Keep ’Em Clean
Some players — present company excluded, of course — have a tendency to blame their cues when things don’t work out. But when it comes to a sticky or gummy feel on the cue shaft, try the easiest solution first. No matter how often you play, your cue’s shaft will play differently than it did on Day One.
“Your hands naturally build up oil and that oil will make your hand sticky,” said Royce Bunnell of OB Cues. “Sticky hands will make it hard for the shaft to slide smoothly through your bridge hand. More often than not, you just need to wash your hands with hot water. You’ll be amazed how it will improve things. Even if your hands feel damp, it’ll be amazing how slick your cue will feel.”

Know How You Like It
To a certain extent, the look and feel of your cue is a personal preference. Similarly, your normal maintenance routine should be in line with your preferences, though there’s one baseline consideration that shouldn’t be overlooked.
“I say, if you’re making balls, keep riding it,” Eric Weber of Denver’s CueStix International. “[It’s] sort of like sex, to each his/her own. Clean, dirty, rough — it’s really all in how you like it. Oil, dirt, chalk buildup give a cue a ‘lived in’ look that appeals to some.  Other people like it clean and super smooth.”
Regardless of how often, your shaft will require periodical cleaning and burnishing.

H2Oh?
Water may clean your mitts, but it can spell big trouble for your shaft. In fact, many do-it-yourself shaft maintenance products, such as leather burnishers, conditioners and wax sealants, are designed at least in part to keep moisture out.
“Moisture is the No. 1 enemy of your shaft,” said Paul Costain, lead engineer with Predator Products. “It causes the grain to rise and the wood to warp.”
OB Cues’ Bunnell, meanwhile, allows for a tiny bit of moisture to enter a player’s normal maintenance routine. Before dropping your cue into its case, he suggests getting two paper towels, one dry and the other just barely damp, as though it was the last paper towel you used to dry your hands.
“Wipe your cue one time with the damp towel,” he said. “Grab it at the joint and wipe up the shaft and then wipe the butt once. Then you take the dry towel, burnish the shaft with it and make sure to create a little heat. Wipe off the butt, wipe off the chalk and you’re ready to go.”

Shaft
No matter how you choose to clean your shaft, it’s best to steer clear of sandpaper, abrasives and any other heavy-duty methods to remove excess chalk, grime, etc. Cleaning methods (and products) vary, so it’s best to ask for recommendations directly from your cuemaker or its website.
“Do not use any abrasives on your shaft, and stay away from green pads in pool rooms,” Costain said. “Using abrasives is going to take the diameter of your shaft down and modify the shape of your taper. It may even void the warranty on your shaft.”

The Shape of Things
Whether the tip of your cue is the radius of a dime or nickel — we’re not handling this debate here — you should know when it’s time to reshape or scuff your tip by feel rather than sight. After all, the cue ball will give you your answer, not your eyes.
“It’s not a visual thing, it’s about performance,” Bunnell said. “If the cue isn’t spinning the ball quite like you expect it to, the tip might be flattening out. A lot of people look at it, if it doesn’t look like a loofah sponge, they want to shape it. But that’s not necessary.”
Similarly, tip maintenance may not be needed as often as you think. The more the work on the only thing that will actually contact a ball on the table, the faster you will have to replace it.
“If a tip does not mushroom or miscue, leave it alone, just chalk and play,” said Tony Kalamdaryan, president of California-based Tiger Products. “If it’s not broke, don’t fix it. If you need to scuff or shape a tip, there are good tools out there. Use them only if you have to, not because it’s your habit of doing it before a match.”
In the course of normal maintenance, your tip will wear down. It’s important to be proactive in replacing a worn tip before the situation gets dire. When the straight edge of the tip is approaching the thickness of a quarter, it’s time to think about getting it replaced.

Good Mates
Your cue’s joint may be something of an afterthought, but it is surprisingly vulnerable when it’s out of the case and exposed. Minimize that time by screwing it together (and breaking it down) entirely.
 “If you hit a ball with a partially screwed joint, you could cause some damage,” Bunnell said. “On the other hand, some players feel like they need to screw the joint together as much as you can. You only need to snug it up so it’s a tight fit. Once the joint faces are together and it’s tight enough for them to stay that way, any extra tightening is only putting additional stress on the cue.”
Your entire cue is under enough stress having to perform for you. Take it easy on the joint.

On the Backend
Besides wiping it down after every use, your cue’s butt shouldn’t require too much consideration. Often, the only time you’ll have a problem with the butt is when you (or your ex-friend) slams it against a stool and nicks the wood. Even then, the performance will most likely remain unchanged, though the aesthetics of your previously flawless cue have been compromised.
“If you’ve got a big ding in the butt, but the finish hasn’t been compromised, you don’t really have to do anything,” Weber said. “Think of a fender bender on your car. [It] doesn’t look too great, but the car is still going to do what it’s meant to do for transportation.”
If you need to care for a dent, chip or problem with the bumper, take it to a pro.

Pack It In
Leaning your cue against the wall, even for a short period of time, isn’t recommended. But a lesser known danger can lurk around in-home tables, whether you’re playing with a $20 house cue or something a little more pricey and personal.
“For those who have tables at home, players may leave the cue flat on the table for extended periods of time, but that’s not something you should do,” Bunnell said. “When a cue is laying flat, the shaft is actually bending slightly. The taper of the cue is such that the shaft extends beyond where the tip of a normally shaped cone would be. So you could pick up a cue after it had been laying on the table for a few days or weeks and it’ll appear warped or may have a flop.”
For the most part, storage requires discipline and diligence more than anything else: Always put your house cue back in the rack. Always properly clean your cue before placing it back in its case.

Handle With Care
Outside of a simple case, your cue won’t need much when it comes time to transport your precious cargo to your buddy’s basement or the poolroom across town.
“Use ‘baby rules’ for transportation,” Weber said. “You wouldn’t leave an infant in a car when it’s 98 degrees outside, [so] don’t do it to your cue. The same goes for cold.”
It’s common sense, but the distinction between transportation and storage isn’t a small one. Tossing your cue in the trunk for the commute is fine, but that becomes problematic when it spends more time with your tire iron than in your hands. You wouldn’t store your cue in the garage in the Minnesota winter or Florida summer, so remember to bring it inside with you. Every. Single. Time. 

Bring It Into the Shop?
Considering the high level of accuracy you demand out of your cue, there’s really no easy rule for when it’s time to bring it to a professional. The easiest answer might be similar to when you know a specific pain or ache requires a visit to the doctor. When you know, you know.
“When it comes to handling your cue, do not attempt anything unless you are 100 percent sure,” Kalamdaryan said. “Let the professionals do what they do best, because one screw up is enough to ruin it. Just when you think you can save a little might end up costing you more.”
Cleaning your shaft is a skill that can be acquired. But when it comes to wrap changes, replacing your ferrule, changing tips and removing dings in your shaft, just make it easy on yourself and bring it into a professional.

Not So Guaranteed
Piggy-backing on the last point, you’re risking more than just your cue’s health when you decide to be Mr. or Ms. Fix-It.
“There’s one very important rule all cue owners need to keep in mind: If you or another third party works on the cue after purchase, you’ve voided all manufacturer warranties,” Weber said.
If you heard a bleach bath was good for your shaft (hint: it’s not), you’ve just turned your cue into a novelty-sized toothpick. This isn’t to scare the average cue owner from maintaining his cue; it’s just a reminder to err on the side of caution when messing around with your cue away from the table. After all, if you aren’t satisfied with your purchase, it’s best not to blame your tools for what could be a problem with the owner.
“My favorite story is a customer who wanted to return a cue because it didn’t make any balls,” Weber said. “I got a laugh until I realized he was
serious.”


Best-Sellers
Every cuemaker has a cue that players just can’t get enough of. Here are the leaders for pool’s biggest wandmakers.

J&J America
Model: Panther 752 + MSRP: $130
The Panther line from J&J America offers great playability at an affordable price.
The Panther 752 features four points with veneers, linen wrap, maple shaft and a custom finish.
www.jjcue.com
562-229-9688

Nick Varner
Model: NV64 + MSRP: $250
The traditional ebony and birdseye maple NV64 from Nick Varner is a popular choice, featuring five points with diamond inlays in the nose and butt. The NV64 is well balanced and has a stainless steel joint with an Irish linen wrap. The choice of champions.
www.nickvarner.com
800-626-8408

Rawhyde
Model: Rawhyde + MSRP: $199
A classic cue with a unique design, the Rawhyde cue by PureX infuses traditional styling with bold laser etching. The cue comes with a PureX low deflection shaft, an Everest tip and a variety of wraps. Rawhyde cues also come with a lifetime warranty.
www.cueandcase.com
800-835-7665

Imperial International
Model: R360 + MSRP: $250
Shane Van Boening uses the Cuetec R360. ’Nuff said! The R360 features a composite core surrounded by four maple sections, which virtually eliminates deflection in the shaft and provides an accurate shot. The R360 shaft comes with a Tiger Everest tip and ABS ferrule for outstanding cue ball control. The hardwood butt features an Irish linen wrap and comes in classic colors.
www.imperialusa.com
800-397-0122

Tiger Products
Model: X2 Series + MSRP: $999-$1,799
Superior performance and original designs set the new X2 Series from Tiger Products apart from the pack. A combination of cocobolo and curly maple are complemented by copper rings near the joints, with Irish linen wrap or natural handle as options. The 5X patented core system gives 360-degree radial consistency. Made in the USA.
www.tigerproducts.com
818-238-9906

Cue Stix Int’l
Model: VOD21 + MSRP: $165
The Voodoo “Bloodshed” cue has got 8-ball on the brain. Digitally engraved and painted blood red, this evil looking cue is ready to let people know that it’s Halloween year round for you. The butt features Voodoo’s blood-pulsing bumper logo and is weight adjustable.
www.cuestix.com
800-645-9803

CueSight
Model: STGCTD + MSRP: $95
The Red-Eyed Dragon, designed by accomplished tattoo artist John Rainey, is not your father’s pool cue.
The tribal design cue has a red and black pressed Irish linen wrap and comes with a maple shaft.
www.cuesight.com
800-660-2572

Rage
Model: Rage + MSRP: $69
Don’t sacrifice style or quality for price. Rage cues are geared toward players of all ages and skill levels who want a quality cue that looks great, but won’t break the bank. Rage cue offers a wide variety of designs, with models ranging from mild to wild.
www.cueandcase.com
800-835-7665

Predator Cues
Model: Roadline + MSRP: $449-$499
Unassumingly beautiful and crafted to exude quiet confidence, the Roadline Sneaky Petes from Predator are engineered for what matters most — winning. Made of curly maple, the six-point full splice construction incorporates elongated points, a Uni-Loc weight cartridge system and low deflection shafts.
www.predatorcues.com
904-448-8748

PureX
Model: PureX + MSRP: $239
PureX cues amplify your game with affordable technology. Traditional designs with high-performance enhancements create cues that not only look beautiful, but also play like a dream. PureX cues feature a premium Kamui tip and a low deflection technology shaft.
www.cueandcase.com
800-835-7665

OB Cues
Model: OB135 + MSRP: $918
The Darts high-performance cue from OB features a birdseye maple forearm with six cocobolo dart points, a cocobolo handle and a birdseye maple sleeve with six cocobolo dart points re-cut into black micarta. The OB135 also uses a Straight Line Core construction to ensure a straight, strong, stable and stiff cue. Custom feel in a production cue. Comes with your choice of OB shafts.
www.obcues.com
877-399-9901

Viking
Model: A421 + MSRP: $415
Fourth Axis CNC sleeve machining creates the stunning inlays in the A421 from Viking Cue Mfg. Made with Central American cocobolo and West African ebony, the beautiful hardwood cue also features the ViKORE All American Performance Shaft.
www.vikingcue.com
608-271-5155

Cue Stix Int’l
Model: ATH39 + MSRP: $139
Vivid color, butterflies and style are just a few attributes that make the Athena cue one of a kind. The Athena has a black Irish linen wrap, thinner taper for smaller hands, and comes with a 10-inch butt extension. The shaft and butt measure 28.5 inches.
www.cuestix.com
800-645-9803

Poison Billiards
Model: AX2 + MSRP: $234-$369
Your reign of terror at the table begins with the Anthrax 2 from Poison Billiards. Four striking designs feature six-point, saw-tooth inlays, a Uni-Loc joint and all utilize the Predator-engineered low-deflection Venom2 shaft.
www.poisonbilliards.com
904-448-8748

Lucasi
Model: Hybrid + MSRP $379-$599
Lucasi Hybrid cues kick high performance up a notch with specially engineered enhancements from tip to butt. All Hybrids feature eight-piece radial construction, X-Shox Dampening System and G5 Grip Technology.
Backed with a lifetime warranty.
www.cueandcase.com
800-835-7665

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